Toast to Kristine

The day after the Kraft Mountain brouhaha, Keith, Kristine, and I headed out to no other place than Kraft Mountain. The hike took us past some beautiful boulders, which caused Keith’s fingertips to salivate with desire. He’s a boulder-er by trade and has incredible strength and skill on small holds and powerful moves. We coaxed him to keep walking with us and on the back side of the mountain, after a half an hour or so, we made it to a batch of three sport climbs at The Family Crag. The book didn’t give the climbs very good ratings, but we were amped to climb regardless and began with the easiest of the three climbs. A 5.8 that Keith lead. He was gushing about climbing on his favorite rock: sandstone. It’s incredibly featured which makes the climbing very fun and dynamic as you pick your holds on our way to the top. I led it next and then it was Kristine’s turn to rope up. She had been feeling a little funny from the night before and wasn’t quiet sure how well she’d climb, or even if she would climb at all. We told her she couldn’t miss such a nice climb, especially since it was perfect for her ability. She conceded.

She felt a little out of balance as she began the climb but quickly got in the rhythm as she made it to the top without any difficulty. Keith and I were both impressed.

We then moved down the wall and I led the next climb, which was a very smooth 5.9. Keith followed and then again came Kristine and basically walked up the climb in very good style.

I again kicked off the third and last climb on that wall–another 5.9. It was a very nice climb. It seemed harder than the last climb. The holds were smaller and the wall a bit more overhung. I definitely felt a bit pumped when I reached the top. Keith climbed it next and really liked it. I told you those small, crimpy holds are his vice. I really wasn’t sure if Kristine would make it up the climb unless she exercised all the technique that she’s learned so far. She’d have to move up the wall using mostly her legs, while hanging on her arms and keeping them from getting too fatigued. She’d have to look ahead at the next few moves so she could commit to them and climb past without using up all her energy. Well. She did it! And made it look easy.

It was getting late when we finished the last climb. The sun would be setting within the hour. We completed our hike around Kraft Mountain and made it back to the car with the last few rays of sun lighting our way. Our fatigue and hunger shot flairs into our conversation demanding nothing other than ‘Chipotle’. Like the bat-signal a big barbacoa burrito lighted the sky. Half an hour later three hungry and satisfied climbers walked into a bowl of chips and guacamole. If we had ordered a round of drinks I would have made a toast to Kristine, “A climber! Body and spirit!”

Climbing Hard with Queen Rockstar

It’s been two days of unrelenting fun and climbing hard.

The first day two things happened:
1. Kristine (Queen Rockstar) mantled two bulges. One physical and the other mental. She climbed a 5.8+ with just a little coaching and some trust she moved her body in such a way that sent her past the crux and on to the rest of the climb. This was at the upper end of her ability and it felt like she had surpassed another hurdle in becoming a competent and strong climber. This is her standing in front of the climb before sending it.

2. I sent my first 5.10d of the trip. It was a perfect storm: slightly overhanging wall, pockets, crimps, and side pulls. The climb started in a 5.9+ finger crack. Fifteen feet later I was clipping the first bolt leaning out on a deep pocket as I reached out with my left hand. The more reasonably spaced bolts took me to the top. I was so proud of my muscles that I kissed them and rode my high horse around for the next little bit until it was time to climb again. Here’s the climb and snapshots right after the climb ( There’s also an 11b on the arete of this boulder that’s on my hit list for one of the next few days).

The next day we head out early again to find the nectar climbs we crave!

It was a 10b that Kristine conquered this day. Truly amazing!
Here’s the climb… (though the picture never represents a climb well).

The climb had pretty positive hold throughout. It was rated a four start climb, and well deserved. The movement up the rock was very good. The climb was steeper in places than it looked and being overhung really worked Kristine’s upper body. It’d debatable whether or not she’ll be able to climb tomorrow. She took a couple times on the way up to rest, but otherwise was able to make all the moves necessary to get to the top of the 80′ climb. Apple and a thumbs up all around!